Hourglass, apple or pear?

How to choose clothes which flatter your body shape and accentuate your assets

Your clothing style or ‘personality’ is mostly led by your body shape. There are other factors but your body shape is the main aspect.

Interestingly, your body shape is partly determined by your character. If you are an endomorph for instance you will most likely have a ‘round’ belly; if you are an ectomorph you most likely have a tall straight body. This is a generalisation and there can be many combinations but the ‘somatic body’ plays a large part in your ‘style analysis’ and it is a consideration in dressing to your character, dressing authentically and to your style. 

When you dress congruently, you convey who you are through your dress. When this is not congruent it creates discourse and affects how others relate to you. Some will say we shouldn’t be ‘judged’ by the way we look and I agree. Unfortunately, I’m afraid we are judged by others and if we are honest, we do judge others in return whether we mean to or not. Being judged by how we look is a fact of life. Humans make a judgement within a millisecond of meeting someone for the first time. If you want to determine the impression you make, you will need to accept how you look is a part of that.

For a moment, imagine Cher in a floaty, chiffon floral dress. Admittedly she could probably rock any look but this would look ‘wrong’ wouldn’t it? Because her clothing personality is full dramatic. So when you see her in dynamic angles and straight lines she looks great. She is dressing congruently with her character and also her ‘brand’. We say her clothes ‘suit’ her.

Body shape is only one aspect of determining your clothing style but a big part. You have to first know what your body shape is.

You have a unique shape. Your body shape is determined by your height combined with your vital measurements (bust/chest, waist and hips). Here are some general tips for working out your body type and how to dress to enhance your best features:

  1. If you have an hourglass figure (meaning your bust and hips are roughly the same width, with a smaller waist in between), you can pretty much wear most styles. However, avoid baggy clothing, as it can make you look shapeless. Instead, opt for fitted tops and bottoms that highlight your waist.
  2. If you have a pear-shaped body (meaning your hips are wider than your bust), you may want to draw attention to your upper half by wearing tops with interesting necklines or details to create a balanced look. Avoid tops that are too big for you, as they can make you look bottom-heavy. A-line skirts or skirts with a flared bottom can be flattering, as they balance out your proportions. Wear your lighter colour on your top.
  3. If you have an apple-shaped body (meaning you carry most of your weight in your midsection), you may want to avoid clothing that is too tight around your middle. Instead, opt for tops that have some structure and are not too boxy. A-line skirts or skirts with a fitted waist can also be flattering. Avoid bottoms with a high rise, as they can make you look bottom-heavy. Avoid horizontal stripes on tops as this will create width. 
  4. If you have a rectangular body shape (meaning your bust, waist, and hips are all roughly the same width), you can experiment with a variety of styles. However, you may want to avoid clothing that is too baggy, as it can make you look shapeless. Instead, opt for fitted clothing that defines your waist, such as belted dresses or tops with a peplum. You can create shape in your clothing by the use of colour. Dark colours move backwards and lighter colours move forward. You can use this to your advantage to create variation in your shape.
  5. If you have an athletic or boyish figure (meaning you have little definition between your waist and hips), you may want to add some curves with ruffled or draped tops, or by wearing belts to define your waist. Avoid clothing that is too loose, as it can make you look shapeless.

Remember, these are just general guidelines. It’s important to wear what makes you feel confident and comfortable. With a little bit of experimentation, you’ll be able to find clothing that flatters your figure and creates the shape you want.

Published by Elaine Flook

I spent around 20 years working in design management and corporate branding. I cut my teeth as a Publicity Executive for a UK TV company in the 80s and progressed through design agencies to Global Head of Branding & Corporate Identity for a major international investment bank. A chronic health condition led me to complementary health and to become a practitioner. After another 21 years working as a therapist/coach to business people I pursued a long-held dream and graduated from The London School of Make-Up and The British College of Professional Styling. Funny how it can take a lifetime to find out what you really want to do. I'm reminded of Baz Lhurmann "Some of the most interesting 40 year-olds I know, still don't'. 2019 and the Pandemic led me again to a reassessment of what I want to do and how I want to work led me to pursue my interests and seems to have brought me right back around to design, bringing my 21 years of building confidence in people along with me. I enjoy design from all aspects but particularly its key purpose - functionality. I've always had a natural eye for colour and design running alongside a love of clothes. I wouldn't say 'fashion' per se. Fashion is fun and enjoyable but I've never been a fashion addict. I enjoy trends and do follow some but I am more interested in craftsmanship and the development of individual style for myself and others. I enjoy sewing. Being a seamstress is a great way of understanding how clothing is constructed, especially reverse engineering it by taking something apart to alter it or just to see how it is made. Men’s tailoring, women’s clothing and couture has long been a passion of mine. I am fascinated by how we can change our appearance by a single, simple gesture and how we are perceived by how we dress and present ourselves. Confidence can be built or crushed by what we wear and either elevate or destroy style. I love the synergy between the art and science of creating style. I'm loving working with people to create their own personal style and have a passion for dressing sustainably.

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